Reflections on a First Week
in Peru
Just
over a month ago, I received an offer from Gunnar Engblom to work with his
Lima-based bird tour company, Kolibri Expeditions (http://www.kolibriexpeditions.com,
kolibri@telefonica.net.pe)
, for half a year. I landed in Lima on April 20th, and the next morning set
out for an incredible inaugural week of birding in central Peru with Pierre
and Alma (two Dutch birders), Gunnar’s two Peruvian aides Juvenal and Goyo
and of course Gunnar himself.
We
began our journey by driving up the Santa Eulalia Valley, hoping especially
for Rufous-breasted Warbling-Finch, a rare Peruvian endemic whose song Gunnar
was hoping to record for the first time. Although we had no luck with this
particular species, the birding along the road was spectacular; Great Inca-Finches,
another endemic, were seen frequently, as were Peruvian Sheartails with their
long tail streamers. As we searched a shrubby hillside for the Warbling-Finch,
Pierre called “Condors!” and we spent a few minutes admiring two majestic
Andean Condors soaring below us. Giant Hummingbirds cruised around looking
remarkably like Bee-eaters; they were one of seven hummers seen that first
day. We set up camp to the sound of the distinctive “Pacific” race of Peruvian
Pygmy-Owl calling from an open perch directly above our heads!
On
our second day we continued up the valley, seeing such South American classics
as Torrent Duck and White-capped Dipper before reaching a hydro-electric station
where we found many birds. Among them were two more Peruvian endemics, Black
Metaltail and Rusty-crowned Tit-Spinetail as well as Thick-billed Siskin and
White-winged Cinclodes. A landslide prevented us from taking the planned route,
so we returned to the main road to drive over Ticlio Pass. The detour proved
interesting, as we found our best bird so far at the pass – a family of the
very local and endemic White-bellied Cinclodes. We found some typical Andean
waterfowl at a lake just across the pass including Crested Duck, Andean Goose
and Silvery Grebe. We drove on to camp outside Satipo at the eastern base
of the Andes.
We
spent the next three days exploring the Satipo Road, an area which hadn’t
been visited by birders for over thirty years due to terrorist activity in
the area. Now that the area is safe to bird again, the road is sure to become
a popular destination soon – we found incredible birds at all elevations along
the way! We spent the first day working up to about 1000 m., seeing fourteen
tanagers including such gems as Paradise, Green-and-gold, Black-faced and
Beryl-spangled Tanagers and Blue Dacnis. We encountered Andean Cock-of-the-rocks
twice during the day, and an Amazonian Umbrellabird appeared to be a fitting
conclusion to a great day of birding – but, as dusk closed in, an encore appeared
in the form of a Lyre-tailed Nightjar as we set up our tents! The next day
we continued up the road, seeing a kaleidoscope of tanagers again and many
other incredible birds! The morning was highlighted by an obliging pair of
Lanceolated Monklets and a Fasciated Tiger-Heron, while in the afternoon Chestnut-breasted
Coronets and many Booted Racket-tails put on quite a show as we prepared to
camp at 1500 m. Our final day on the road was perhaps the best, although the
first two were hardly disappointments - I added over 50 species to my life
list that day, and many of them were stunning birds! The morning produced
crippling views of a Chestnut-crowned Gnateater and a pair of Blue-browed
Tanagers as well as some gaudy Versicoloured Barbets. The tanagers were again
colourful and numerous, including many Mountain-Tanagers (Lacrimose, Hooded,
Blue-winged, Buff-breasted, Chestnut-bellied and Scarlet-bellied!) as we ascended
into true montane habitat. Around 2000 m we found an incredible flock including,
among many of the tanagers mentioned above, Streaked Tuftedcheek, three Brush-Finches,
Violet-throated Starfrontlet and Spectacled Whitestart. After a few more goodies,
including Sword-billed Hummingbird and Collared Inca, we stopped just outside
a small village above the tree line for a hummer someone had spotted from
the car. It turned out to be a Peruvian endemic – Fire-throated Metaltail.
As we watched it, Goyo made the best discovery of the trip so far – an Eye-ringed
Thistletail! Another endemic, this one not seen by birders in thirty years!
We watched it breathlessly as it skulked in a thicket until we all had seen
it well. What a bird to complete our exploration of the Satipo Road – sure
to become rival for the world-famous Manu Road as it is visited by more birders!
After
arriving in the small village of Punto late at night, we awoke in the chilly
Andean dawn anticipating another exciting day, which we got! We hiked down
to an area known as Otuto hoping to find the recently described Black-spectacled
Brush-Finch, although it had previously only been found in a nearby valley.
We were distracted from our search by many great birds, including what appears
to be a new taxon of wren, possibly an isolated subspecies of Plain-tailed
Wren or maybe even a new species to science! After great looks at Mountain
Caracara, Rufous Antpitta, Black Siskin and Shining Sunbeam, we did find the
Brush-Finch and got pleasing views of it too! We made the trek back up to
the village for a meal with the president of the community, and over some
of the world’s best potatoes and cheese, we discussed with him the potential
for ecotourism around his remote village. Satisfied, we headed for Huancayo
for a night in civilization.
Although
waking up to car horns instead of bird songs was a bit unpleasant, we had
all enjoyed a night in a bed, and we settled back into the van for the drive
to Marcopomacocha. Although we’d left the humid heat of the lowlands just
days before, we drove through fairly serious snow on the way. However, the
afternoon weather was acceptable as we found four Furnariids, including two
more Peruvian endemics – Junin Canastero and Dark-winged Miner. In the same
area were four species of Ground-Tyrants, including the first Lima Department
record of Black-fronted. However, the best bird of the day was the last –
great looks at a Diademed Sandpiper-Plover, a sought-after species that Gunnar
has not yet missed at this site! We drove on down to Lima, stopping in San
Mateo for a well-earned and hearty meal.
To
conclude my first week of Peruvian birding, I made a day trip with five other
birders to Lomas de Lachay, a desert oasis north of Lima. The hour’s drive
up was through an incredibly desolate sand-and-rock landscape, and it was
somewhat surprising when a Coastal Miner appeared out of the bleak desert
while we ate a roadside breakfast. It was the first of three endemic Furnariids
on the day; we spent quite a bit of time getting everyone looks at the most
difficult – the Cactus Canastero. At the oasis itself we found a very cooperative
Thick-billed Miner and also had great looks at Burrowing Owls and Least Seedsnipe.
It
was a week of climatic extremes – brief tropical downpours in the lowland
heat of Satipo, thick snowfall and biting winds at Ticlio Pass and scorching
desert hills on the coast – and these extremes of habitat produced an amazing
variety of bird life. South America earned its reputation as “the bird continent”
with me by producing 259 species in my first eight days, including many vibrant
tanagers, skulking canasteros, dainty flycatchers and countless other brilliant
birds!
Dave Geale